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Salmon Tackle


Question
Pat,

I am interested in fishing for Chinook in Oregon, and need guidance on what kind of tackle to use.  I will be fishing in the rivers from the bank.  I have a decent amount of experience fishing in Florida (I know how to play larger fish on lighter tackle), but I am unfamiliar with fishing fast-water for Salmon and Steelhead.  What would be a good all-around rig for me, including line strength?  

Thanks  

Answer
Hello Alex...
Wow, what a question..! There are whole books written about how to fish for salmon and steelhead, so the best I can do is pass along a few things I personally have learned, mainly about steelhead since I've not done much salmon fishing. We steelheaders think of salmon as trash fish :-) Pound for pound, steelhead will outfight and outlast any salmon.

First you want at least a 12-foot rod and one that has a fairly flexible tip. That's because the most effective technique for steelhead is letting the current bounce bait right down along the river's bottom and when steelhead first pick it up they do so very delicately; without a sensitive rod tip you'll seldom feel it. For line I seldom use anything heavier than 8-pound monofilament. Two reasons: I like to give the fish a chance, plus the lighter the line the less likely the fish will see it. In murkier water you can step up to 10- or 12- pound. Bouncing stuff along a river's bottom is very effective when the fish are in. Three major baits for this: (1) blobs of *fresh* salmon roe about the size of your thumb. Can be a bit hard to find in stores, but fish markets often have what you need; (2)corkies are the next most favored bait. These are balls of buoyant plastic in several sizes and colors, some with little 'wings' that cause the corkie to spin in current. It seems that every river has fish that prefer one size/color over another, so you'd have to ask around on that based on what water you'll be working; (3)sand shrimp are often good and are available from fish markets and/or the meat section in many super markets. For all three of the above baits you want can use a three-way swivel on the end of your main line; tie off at least 18" of leader for your hook and bait, and about 12" or so for another length of leader onto which you pinch pencil lead weight (..how much is a matter of current speed, so you'll need to experiment to get just enough weight to cause the rig to just tap along the bottom. As a general rule, if you're not snagging up and losing weight you're not fishing deep enough. When using any of these three methods, set your hook on *anything* that doesn't quite feel right. Finally, under some conditions (..that sorry to say I've never figured out..) steelhead will go crazy for medium-sized spoons and/or spinners. Cast quartering upstream, let the lure sink almost to the bottom, then start a slow retrieve when the current swings it back in towards the bank. Try different depths.

The best water type for steelhead is just a little off-color or stained with silt. The fish aren't quite as spooky as they are in gin-clear water and will be closer in to the bank. For starting out, find a deep pool with medium-speed current. In our rivers out here the pools are always preceded by whitewater, and a 'tailout' of whitewater. Fish the full length of such pools, especially the head where fish rest before tackling the next stretch of fast water, and the tailouts where they also take a break after navigating the preceding rapids. In very fast water look for any pockets of calm water, like behind large rocks.

These are just some of the highlights, and I've already got writers' cramp :-) The absolute best way to find out how to best fish for salmon and steelhead is to talk to fishermen who are in the know. Many of the guys working the fishing equipment sections of large sporting goods stores have a wealth of information, including local conditions and tips.

Hope you do well..!

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