need advice about new skis

Question
QUESTION: Hi there: I have had the same pair of skis since 1994. This past year when I went skiing, many, many people commented on my old fashioned skis! I'm ready to upgrade to take advantage of the new ski technology and am hoping that a new pair will help me improve as well.  I'm a solid intermediate skier and have sort of been stuck at this level for several years. I ski about 2 weekends a year (mainly in Tahoe), prefer steep groomed trails, although I do well in powder as well. I struggle with bumps and avoid mogul-y runs. Another thing about me that may or may not be relevant: I almost never fall. I like to ski fast, but also like to be in control.  

I am female, 5'2", about 135 lbs. Other sports I do regularly: yoga and hiking.

I'm curious about appropriate ski length and also about things I should pay attention to when making a purchase. What kind of skis are appropriate to my level of skiing and my preferred terrain.

Thanks!!

ANSWER: Hi Cynthia,

I find myself NOT saying anything to skiers on old gear anymore- I figure by now you've heard it a million times. Sorry about your experience. Lots of older stuff skis great, but it does stand out in a crowd.

Yoga is great for your skiing- it makes us more aware of our feet and ankles, the curvature of the spine, and relative position of body parts- Hiking is an activity that makes us tactically aware, both in terms of route planning and footing (think Mountain Goat). I'll bet they  play a great role in your performance on the hill!

You made a comment about being stuck at the intermediate level- and I wonder if it is not time to see a boot fitter to check fore-aft balance and positioning. This can have a great impact upon the progress of women on skis. This is largely because women's smaller feet have more effect on the "ramp angle" of bindings, while a womans pelvic tilt can vary greatly; so it is trickier to get you in the right "spot" on your skis. With more and more skiing "systems" out there, integrated ski and binding combinations can have a large effect on the skiers balance, and ability to effect the ski where and when you want to. This means that it is easier to go fast than it is to turn quickly, or even to maintain balance in the bumps.

OK, with that said, here are a few things to consider in looking at skis. First off, you know you are going to go with a shorter ski- I think in the 151-157 range. You want a bit of width for powder skiing- probably about 72-76 under foot (I like a bit narrower, and you will initially also, but you'll get used to and like a wider ski).

So here is what is important- for stability at speed, you'll want a heavier ski- preferably with a "real" wood core. Not composite wood like mid-end volkls though... you can go with a foam core, but it will   
likely have some sort of metal in it too, which can take away from bump performance (and I assume you'll someday want to get better in the bumps). It should also have a rubber dampening layer- not critical, but definitely a sign of a ski that feels more stable than one without the same.

Weight may make a ski feel sluggish in the steeps, but I am not talking race-ski heavy- just heavier. For example, try picking up a Volkl Attiva Luna, vs. The Attiva Fuego. You want a ski like the Fuego, not the Luna.

The Dynastar Exclusive Legend is a nice pick, maybe a Blizzard Viva, and K2 has some great choices in this range.

Please find a boot-fitter who can check your stance. Good Luck, enjoy your summer.

Ron

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thank you! This is very helpful!

One follow-up question. How do you recommend I find a good boot-fitter? I
am persuaded by your argument that that's important, but am at a loss to
know whether someone has that expertise or not.  Honestly, I was just going
to hang on to my boots and buy new skis and bindings, but I do see the
wisdom of paying attention to the boots (and their fit) as well.  Thanks!
Cynthia

Answer
Hello Cynthia,

At Tahoe, you'll find a good shop by asking around, then once you are there, ask them specifically if they do alignments and boot sole grinding. Then, ask if they have a Cambell dynamic balancer. This is not crucial- fore-aft alignment can be done by feel, with slight adjustments made on the hill via heel lifts and shims. Canting should be assessed in the shop, but verified on the hill too- sole grinding is a big commitment if you are un-convinced by the diagnosis. Most peolle really can immediately feel the difference in the shop- especially once they step off of the correcting wedges used for diagnosing! Once determined, there are ways to test canting on the hill, but it is better if I let a shop describe the risks of doing so. There is a system used by a few shops that incorporates plastic "snap-on" lifts and cants too- if you find a shop that offers this- you are really on target. I forget the name of the system though...

You may find that the best way to locate a boot shop is to email the ski school at your favorite resort (you can usually reach the director this time of year), asking what shop the instructors deal with. Most instructors have at least some boot work done, but more importantly, they see what is being done for their guests. I am not a huge fan of that big national boot-fitter (I'll leave their name out of it)- here in Park City they tend to put everyone in too stiff a boot, and they try to sell everyone a custom liner. A lot needs to happen to a shell before a custom liner should be fitted, and I never see this happening in the right order. Stick to the smaller shops with the best reputation among instructors- they make it more about you, than about what they do for everyone.

Things to know- there is a HUGE difference between the effects of cuff alignment vs. canting (done under the boot), but most shops use the term interchangeably. If they say, "oh we cant your boot at the cuff", find another shop- they'll only mess-up your ankle movement. Fore aft balance CAN be adjusted three different ways. On some skis, a shim can be placed under the toe-piece. In some boots, wedges can be placed under the fore-foot or heel (changing your ankle flex within the boot), and in all boots, lifts can be placed under the toes or heels (or the manufacturer offers lifts for the toes, heels, or both in various sizes). The effect of even slight changes can be dramatic- I have had clients who were stuck at intermediate for years, and an hour in a boot shop made everything we had been working on "click".

Regarding the actual assessment- a good shop does not charge to assess, and won't try to immediately sell you a boot. They'll see what's up with the boot you are in, and if it can be fixed. If they do not charge you to look- a case of beer says "thanks" very nicely, even if your alignmnment is just fine. If it is not, expect to pay about $200 for sole grinding and a footbed- a lot of money, but good, well fitting boots last far longer than skis, and the investment is worth it.

One comment you should expect from the shop- most women end up in boots that are too big- it's just a ski-boot reality, so don't be suprised if they suggest this. Boots really shouldn't feel comfy when brand-spankin new. They shouldn't hurt, but they also should be PDS (pretty darn snug).

One final consideration- many shops work with pro-staff; instructors who they trust with their customers, and vice-versa. Ask the shop if they have instructors they trust to assess alignment on the hill- there are not many out there, but it's a great way to feel the changes as they are being applied.

Some clients also enjoy the feedback in a "guided demo", where the instructor can note which gear is performing well, on which they are more reserved or comfortable, and what else to try based upon the qualities they like in the ski or boot.

This may all seem too complicated a solution to the simple question of "which ski", but if you go through the effort, I'm sure you'll be pleased by the outcome!

Ron