Downclimbing Without Removing Quickdraws: A Safe Technique

Question
Hi, i have a situation for you.  When you are leading a route and you get to the top, how do you get back down without leaving your quickdraw up in the last bolt.  Do you have to trash the route and leave it up there?  Thanks.    Chris

Answer
Typically, most routes have two anchors at the top.  Often these can be used without quickdraws.  If they can not, or there is only one bolt, I have always threaded the rope through the last bolt and repelled down using both sides of the rope and pulled it through when on the ground and there is less weight on the anchors.  Many climbers also carry inexpencive, about a dollar or so depending on size, "quick links" which can be found in most every hardwear store.  These look like small carabiners but are steel and have a screw gate.  If you find yourself stuck on a route it's much easier to leave one of these than a $30 quickdraw.

Hope that answers your question.  If you're interested in other techniques, I recommend "Mountaineers: Freedom of the Hills" or the "How to Rock Climb" series of books.  Otherwise, don't hesitate to ask another question.

Thanks,
Nick