exercises for rock climbing

Question
I am a personal trainer and was wondering if you could provide me with some specific training procedures/techniques/equipment I can use in the gym (basic health club) to prepare and condition a client for rock climbing.

Thank you, Tony

Answer
In responce to your question about the wrist exercises, I would recomend reverse wrist curls because the forward motion is worked very hard while climbing and many climbers tend to develope wrist problems as a result, if they climb often.


My typical answer to people who want to get into shape for climbing is to go climbing. In my opinion, there is no equal subsitute.

Having said that, climbing typically uses the pulling muscles, i.e. back, biceps, etc. Do pull-ups, rows, bicep curls, etc. Those who climb often should make sure to exercise the pushing muscles (pectorals, triceps, etc.) to avoid joint problems, i.e. bench press, tricep extensions, shoulder exercises, etc. The hands and fingers are very important, but it's difficult to exercise these in the weight gym, other than holding dumbells for periods of time.

Flexibility is important. Splits can come in handy. Also the higher one can raise their foot above their waist the better, both away from the body and next to.

Endurance can be valuable on long routes. So running can help. Also hanging from a chin-up bar for periods of time helps the grip strength and endurance.

Core strength is very important, lower back and stomach including the obliques.

Hope that answers your question. If I can do anything else, let me know.

Nick