How to Attach a Stick Clip for First Bolt - Climbing Gear & Techniques

Question
how do i stick clip to reach the first bolt?


Answer
Dear Mark---Good Question---First, about the clip----a stickclip can be homemade or, now bought. I have made mine using PVC poles, a hole drill in the end, and a  biner fitted to the hole.  In this case, the biner must be rigged so the gate will open.  With mine, I put a short sling in the biner, anda second loose biner at the low end. When I am ready to clip, I loop the climbing rope through the lower biner, and wa-la, the rope is clipped.  The problem with this method is that you end up with this long pole hanging from the first bolt, possible obstructly the rock.

I have also seen homemade clips using clips from Home Depot mounted at the end. The clips/clamps are the knind used to hold together wood for gluing, and they are about 4"-6" long. In this scenario, you clip a biner/draw to the clip and send it up to the bolt. Once clipped, I presume you yank your clip away, leaving the rope clipped through the biner at the bolt.

I also imagine you could buy one of the long-armed grasping devices sold to seniors/disabled.  You see them at pharmacies.  They have a grasping "hand," so you could see how these work.

Nowadays, major climbing stores all sell manufactured stickclips.  I think "Trango" makes one. These are engineered, and work as described---biner in clip, rope in biner, arm set to bolt, clip biner, retract stickclip.

For more on climbing safety, please see, my book, "Ultrasafe, A Guide to Safer Rock Climbing," available at Amazon.com.

Good Luck

George Allen