Southern Sierras

Question
Mr. Walton,

   I'm heading to the southern California area in mid-march for some climbing and mountaineering.  We were thinking about taking some days to try the Mountaineers route on Whitney, but I can't find too much beta for late winter/early spring climbs.  Do you know anything about road conditions this time of year?(will we be able to drive to the trailhead in a 4x4 or will we have to walk the extra 8 miles and the camp?)  How commiting is the route itself?  Are we better off just hiking the John Muir trail?  We are experienced in snow/ice travel, but are worried about the time commitment.  Can this be done in a day from the trailhead or by camping close to the trailhead?  Do you have any other "Classic Climbs"/must-do climbs while we're in the area?

Thanks for your time,
Jon Lillestolen

Answer
Dear Jon,

  I've driven all the way up to the Trailhead in early April and in early November.  I've never tried it in March. It will depend on what has come down recently.  This last storm hit the southern Sierras pretty hard, so I suspect the Portal road will be impassable for awhile.  
  The Mountaineers route is steep and shaded.  The snow tends to be deep and unconsolidated.  I have not made a winter ascent and I know no-one personally who has done so. I never say anything is impossible, but the MR up and back in a day is a serious piece of work without any snow or ice. The last few hundred feet of the route are the crux.I've never used a rope on the upper section, but the thought has crossed my mind.  Many accidents have occurred in this section.  Conditions vary widely and I just don't know what March will hold - tons of loose snow would be my guess.      I've included a website
http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/   
which may be of use to you.  There's a message board and also the guy who runs the Portal store is a climber who knows all there is to know about the mountain and its routes. You might e-mail him and see what he says.
  Also, you've probably encountered the Paul Hellweg/ Scott McDonald Mt. Whitney Guide.  It's a very useful book if you don't have one.
I have friends who have done the "trail" in April and May in snowy conditions.  This entails at least two nights out, but is enjoyable and requires some steep snow work.  
  The North Ridge of Lone Pine Peak is a great rock climb, but it doesn't come into shape until late May or June.  The  Beckey route on Premier Buttress is good, but I haven't been up there in a long time and never in the Winter.  You'll want to take a bolt kit if you look at it.  Also, the descent gully could be tough when filled with snow.  
  Over all, I think you need to give yourselves a bit of time.  None of Whitney's routes should be rushed.  A combination of factors can cause trouble for even the strongest parties.  I'm not sure I've been much help, but I wish you well.

Bob Walton