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1989 bayliner tilt or prop


Question
Hello i just bought a 89 or 90 bayliner(don't have to title yet to know for sure) '15 with a 50 hp force. After our first trip to the lake i was very disappointed about the performance of the boat. We were under the weight limit and the boat would not plain out with 4 people in it so we took one out and tried to pull a tube but the boat had a very hard time plaining out with a tubber on. After adjusting the trim pin we could get more speed but we lost the ability to get the boat to plan out with just one person driving the boat and pulling the tub. If we got an electric trim would that help and or a better prop. Or am i asking to boat to do more than it is capable of. I think it has the original prop on it. Thank you for your time. Jason Kindrix

Answer
Hi Jason...Thank you for selecting the undesigned to reply to your question.

You can verify the H.I.N. (Hull Identification Number), also known as the boat's serial no., which is stamped into the gel coat in the upper right rear corner of the transom. It will begin with the manufacturer's designated letters, then a series of numeric digits, and the last 4 will denote the month and yr. the boat was built.

I'd be checking the "Capacity Plate or Label" to verify the maximum allowable horsepower for a 15ft runabout. The plate will likely be near the helm or possibly on the transom, and is a requirement by the U.S. and Canadian Coast Guards, dependant upon which country the boat was destined after being built.

Has the hull been checked with a moisture meter to determine the level of moisture that might be contained within the laminates? The problem is called osmosis, and water can and will impregnate the gel coat, resin, and fiberglass laminates over a long period of time, and 18 yrs. is long enough. Most quality marine surveyors have a moisture meter, and don't forget to check the transom as well.

A 50hp o/b mtr. on a 15ft fibreglass boat should provide more than ample planing power, even with 4 occupants + or - the driver,fuel, and equipment. Do you have any idea as to how many hours of running time are on the engine? Regardless, I recommend a compression test be done by a qualified and reliable mechanic.

If the results are within acceptable perameters, check the diameter and pitch of the prop, which can be obtained by recording the part number stamped on the side of the hub, then making an inquiry at a Mercury dealer. They'll confirm whether the prop is original stock that would have normally been sold with the engine, as opposed to a modified prop which has either a higher or lower diameter/pitch.

While you're at it, ask the dealer to verify the yr. of the engine from the serial no. The model no. ought to advise the gear ratio, etc. A good mechanic can advise an appropriate prop for your needs and requirements, but you might to do a trial and error test with a few props before achieving desired results.

I wouldn't waste the money on installing electric trim/tilt at this stage, because economically, I don't think it's worth it on an 18 yr. old mtr., but that's your choice.

When manually adjusting the trim on the mtr., keep in mind the closer the lower unit is to the transom, the quicker the boat should plane. If it is tilted out and away from the transom, then the boat won't plane properly and will likely plow through the water.

Last but not least, when underway at full throttle, take both hands off the steering wheel and see which direction the boat heads. If it continues dead ahead, then that's great. However, if it veers left or right, you'll need adjust the small silver grey fin just underneath the cavitation plate. If the boat veers left, turn the fin slightly to the right, tighten it, then test the steering until you are satisfied with the boat's steering performance.

That's pretty well it Jason. Remember, if you don't know, ASK! Don't take speculative chances. They can become extremely costly.

Safe Boating
Ron  

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