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proper quick draw setting


Question
What is the correct way to use a quickdraw?  I have always
used the "up the back out the front" method for sport
climbs so that as I fall off, the QD doesn't twist and I am
hanging from the front of it.
As I climb away from the bolt, or pro, should the gate face
away from the direction of travel?

Answer
Dear Lauara---you are right to be concerned---I know of a number of falls precipitated by climbers falling across the gate and opening it. The gate should face away from the way you are climbing---so if you move to the rt. the gate opens facing left.

But this does not address all issues---if you think that you are likely to fall, or a failed draw would lead to serious injury, consider using a locking biner at he rope end of the QD.

For more on this and other safety issues, pls. see my book, "Ultrasafe" at Amazon.com

Good Luck---------George Allen

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