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Setting a top rope


Question
If I am going climbing and I am the only person can lead and I have not set up many top rope anchors. Can I go to the top and rappel down over the side and clip direct into the anchors on the rock and put in my quick-draws and put a rope through there?  We can all clean a route.

Answer
Dear Pat,

I've not climbed in Iowa, though I've got lots of family in Sioux City.  Someday.  

I'm not sure I have enough information to answer your question.  Are you going to place your anchors or are they already there?  I'm going to assume that they are existing bolts for a one pitch sport climb and are well placed.  

Before I go any further, I'd like to suggest that you buy John Long's book on anchors.  It will get to you quickly from Amazon and will address and illustrate all questions about climbing anchors.

That said, I'll make a few comments.

1.  However many bolts there are, use them all.  Two is an absolute minimum. I prefer three.

2.  Clip to the bolts with locking carabiners.

3.  Use a cordelette or slings; equalize them so that pressure falls equally on all of the bolts.

4.  Make sure the slings reach the lip of the crag.  You don't want your rope running over an edge of rock.

5.  Use two locking carabiners, gates reversed, to clip the rope to the slings.  Make sure they're locked.  You can then be lowered off or rappel, as you choose.  

I'm not being condescending if i caution you at this point.  Ours is a great sport as long as nobody gets hurt.  It sounds as if you have little outdoor experience.  If so, you are at a very dangerous stage of your climbing career.  It would be very good if you could hook up with an experienced climber for a few outings.  Much that I've said above becomes very obvious if you can see it done by someone who knows what they're doing.  

If you need anything clarified, please write again.  You well understand that getting the toprope anchor correct is absolutely crucial.

Yours,

Robert

P.S.  I should add that if you are working with bolt anchors, do not run your rope right through the hangers unless they are the extra large and rounded ones intended for this use.  If they're normal hangers, you'll at the least wreck your rope.

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