Fun, hard, but most importantly safe routes on Pinnacles east side.

Question
Hey Bob,

   I have been on about 4 trips to the Pinnacles east side thus far, and fell in love on my first trip. I have led some of the obvious classics on the east side (Portent, Rat Race, The Wet Kiss, Stupendous Man, P.O.D.), and recently have broken into the range of being able to comfortably lead 5.11a/b on sport, as long as i can convince myself that the route is well bolted enough to not be seriously dangerous.  I was wondering if you might be able to recommend some routes on the east side in this range (5.10b-5.11b, perhaps) that won't give me a heart attack to lead!  I was wondering specifically about the climbs Heat-Seeking Moisture Missile (Looks spectacular yet scary), Foreplay on the monolith, and on discovery wall The Verdict and Cosmos.  Thank you so much for your time!

Answer
Kenny,

I forgot to mention the Pinnacles climbers' forum Mud 'N Crud.  Most active Pinnacles climbers blog here and share info on routes.  Put up a thread and folks more knowledgeable than I will surely help out.  It's a very friendly group.  Brad Young, the guidebook author, is among the frequent contributors.  I'm climbing with him on Sunday and will mention your questions.  Here's the link:

http://www.mudncrud.com/index.html

Bob

Dear Kenny,

You've had a great introduction to the East Side!  

I've been on Richnak's Revenge, Terranean Tango and Post Orgasmic Depression on the East Face of the Monolith and found them all reasonably protected.   All of them (and many more nearby) are easily top-roped as well.  I've not done Foreplay.

My friend Jim McConachie put up Heat Seeking M,M. and he does good work.  I've not done it and it is problematic (moist!) in springtime.  

I also have not been on the Verdict or Cosmos.  I'll venture to say that I've heard good things about Buffalo Soldier, but never poked my nose out there away from Ordeal.  

I hope this helps a bit.

Bob

P.S.  You might warm up someday with Sinbad up by the Camel.  It's as good as Portent, though shorter.