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Kids route


Question
Hi Robert,

I am usually climbing on the East Side of Pinnacles with my
buddies.

My kids are getting old enough (7 years old... yes I have
twins!) to start climbing outside. I usually take them to
Planet Granite and they climb 5.5 / 5.6.

Do you know any area in the Pinnacles where I could set up
a top rope and make them feel the outdoor climbing
experience?

Thanks for your help

Bertrand  

Answer
Dear Bertrand,

John Cochrane put up a route for his daughters to learn on.  Its name escapes me right now (and I'm a long way from my guide!), but it's right across from the Shepherd on the West Side.  Just after the first bridge on the Balconies Trail, descend into the stream bed and face a moderate water chute.  It has four or five bolts and a good bolt anchor on top.  If you don't want to lead it, you can approach it via 2nd/3rd class rock on the left (facing the cliff).  Traversing further on this approach allows you to set up a top rope on another set of anchors for 5.6 to 5.8 variations of the harder chute.  

Just over the little hill and perhaps 75 yards from the routes I described is the practice rock.  It's accessible on its low, SE corner.  There are a couple of bolts on top and the S face climbs are all in the 5.0 to 5.6 range.  

If you are comfortable leading in the 5.6 range, there are several climbs in that range good for top-roping in the Twinkle Toes area at the base of Machete Ridge.  Take a peek at the desk copy of the guide for details.

On the East Side, you might want to try the big practice rock near the Camel.  Three trails take you to the reservoir: Caves, Moses Spring, and Rim.  Take the Rim trail.  It leaves the High Peaks Trail about a quarter of a mile (and many switchbacks) after the fork where the High Peaks trail takes off right from the Caves/Moses access.  After less than half a mile along the Rim Trail, you'll see a prominent pinnacle right on the canyon rim.  This is the Camel.  The practice rock is to its right.  Many routes are available here.  Walk onto the rock from the S.

Send me another note if you want beta about the High Peaks.

Bob

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