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what board is right for me?


Question
Hey, I went surfing for the first time about a week ago (at Doheny)
and fell in love with it. I was using my friends old 8'10 and it felt
pretty good despite the fact that it was waterlogged. now i'm
looking to buy a board of my own (used, naturally) what i'm
wondering is, what size board should I be looking for? I am 5'6 and
around 145 lbs, i'm a pretty quick learner and i want to be able to
continue using this board as i evolve as a surfer... my friend
suggested a 9'0, i can carry it fine, but it seems awfully tall. i'm
looking for a second opinion. thanks so much for your time
-jess

Answer
Here's something I wrote for SurfGirl magazine, I hope it helps. I think 9'0" is too big for you, try a minimal around seven foot something or a big shortboard at least 6'8" with LOTS of volume. Don't expect to keep it for ages as you'll progress beyond it. When you find the right one it's love at first sight, good luck!

First Board to Full On Quiver
Your first board should be a foamy, whether you hire it on the beach, buy one or use the surf school's. They are ideal to learn on.
  Next, you should buy, beg, steal or borrow something nice and floaty like a minimal. Keep the volume and length up and you'll progress. (If you've decided you want to be a cruisy longboarder, you're set, as they have plenty of both.) Get a board at least 12 inches longer than you are tall, but for most girls anything over 7'4" is going to be too cumbersome. Chops Lascelles of Beach Beat Surfboards says, "One of the main points is trying to keep the overall size as small as possible relative to the surfer so they dont have to waste any excess energy battling the board and can concentrate on surfing and catching waves."    
  But DON'T make your next board a skinny little shortboard. Do you want to surf or look cool? Nicole Morgan, 2005 BPSA champion, says, "Don't just buy the first one you see that you think looks good. Also, it's important to surf something that is within your abilities. So many times I have seen people on boards that are too small for them, and it just ends up in frustration卆ll the fun is gone! Work your way down from large to smaller boards as you improve, that's what worked for me."
  Minimals are an excellent way to progress onto green faces once you can stand. Bill Attlee of Escape Surfboards suggests, "A 7'2" or 7'4" minimal - these are narrow and light, big enough to catch waves on and be a reasonably stable platform on which to progress your surfing techniques." Minimals are harder to come by secondhand, so if you buy a new one and want to progress to a shorter board in a year or two, you should get a decent amount of money back for it. Once the minimal starts to hold you back (it's not fast enough, you can't duckdive it out to the bigger waves you want to be on, or it turns too slowly for you) it might be time to start thinking about a shorter board.
  Still, think volume and length. You need it to paddle into and be stable on waves. Take an experienced friend who knows your surfing level, and be prepared to be very honest with the salespeople or shaper. Get as much advice as you can from any surfing mates or your instructors. Don't be afraid to ask a ton of questions - good salespeople want to sell you a board you love so you'll come back for your next one. Go for something with clean simple lines, no fussy channels or wings.
  Try to buy from a reputable brand - the market is being flooded with boards made cheaply in the Far East, but sometimes they aren't quite up to the same standard or made with the same care as the local shaper, who also has the advantage of knowing local conditions intimately. You'll get a better resale value from something with a good brand name or from a reputable local shaper. Chops says, "The benefits of a local board is you can develop your design over a period of time as you build up a relationship with your shaper. At Beach Beat we keep a file for every custom board we make and that enables us to be able to fine tune your favourite design."
  The shape of the board you choose is up to you. Check out the shapes below and learn to recognise what other people are riding. If you get a chance to try out a mate's board, always say yes as it's a chance to find out what works and doesn't for your riding.
  We asked surf instructor Tracey Boxall for some tips on finding the right board: "When you start surfing they say you should have a board about two feet taller than yourself, but this is not always true. If you have a lesson or two and are struggling to stand on eight or nine foot Swell boards, than you will need a hard board with similar length. A lot of shops tell women to buy smaller boards as they are easier to carry: don't do it, girls. If your instructor has said a size, stick to it. Otherwise you'll struggle for some time and may even give up. If you're already surfing and want smaller boards, again ask coaches for advice; if you go too small too soon you will get habits which will hamper your progression."

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