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kid+dad looking to transition from gym to rock

2016/7/22 8:47:38


Question
Dear Jeff,

My five-year-old daughter is a beast of a climber on plastic. She is very comfortable doing 5.7/5.8 face routes, basic chimneys and lots of bouldering. My question is how to move safely from plastic to the real rock in our neighborhood -- the San Francisco Peninsula. Handley Rock in Redwood City is the ideal -- bombproof bolts, accessible top, very simple for me to set safe anchors for top-roping. What other places might you recommend in the area that are good for beginners and fit that criteria (particularly the accessible top and bombproof bolts). I have not yet taken an  anchor-building class and would like to keep this as simple, safe and straightforward as possible. Thank you for any advice! It's very much appreciated. David.

Answer
David,
I am in the East Bay and am not too familiar with things on the Pennisula. Perhaps someone at the local climbing shop could help.  There are also climbing guides to the Bay Area available at REI and climbing shops.

In Berkeley there is Indian Rock, Cragmont Rock and Pinnacle Rock. All are good top roping.  Mt. Diablo is a bit unstable for the little folks.

Defintely get your daughter a chest harness/full body harness or fashion ne out of webbing.  This is much safer for the small kids. And make sure she wears a helmet. I have my kids wear their bike helmets and they work fine.

Keep in mind that outdoor climbing on real rock is much different than the plastic walls.  Don't get caught up in the ratings, find clibs that are fun.  The ratings will not translate very well wehn you get to the real rock.

Jeff
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