Mt Whitney

Question
I am trying to plan a trip to Mt Whitney in September, any advice on a route?  I climb 5.9 trad, am comfortable on multi pitch routes,  but would really like to avoid the crowds.  

Answer
Dear Matt,

I'll assume you're starting from scratch so allow me to first refer you to two excellent sources of information:

http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/  --  sign up here for news, conditions, and all kinds of fascinating Whitney gossip.  Browsing the various chat strands can be truly helpful.

"Climbing Mt. Whitney" by Walt Wheelock and Wynne Benti gives you basic and essential information.  It costs nine or ten bucks and is worth hundreds.  

If you entered the permit lottery and have your permit to travel into the Whitney area in September, all is fine.  If you didn't and don't, write back and I'll tell you how you might secure a permit anyway.

As far as technical climbing is concerned, you'll be pondering one of the variations on the East Face route, or the East Buttress route.  I've not done the last, but friends tell me it's great.  All of these are highly popular.  Luck and careful timing may help you climb without company.  If you're at the rope-up point in the notch behind the First Tower at dawn, you shouldn't have a problem.  If you're fast, acclimatized and fit, a late start, after noon, might work.  However, if anyone at all is still above you, forget it.  I came close, two-feet or so, from being mushed by a boulder on the Fresh Air Traverse back in 1984.  Unseen climbers above dropped a little present on my partner and me.  We were both hit by smaller stones and suffered bruises and massive fright.  Need I add that helmets are a must?  

Descent is via the Mountaineer's Route.  It's no piece of cake, especially early in the season.  It's very steep for the first several hundred feet.  In September, it should be in decent shape. Any ice at the top should be easily avoided.  Study the description and make sure you turn right into the gully at the correct point.  Also, stop and look down the route every fifty feet or so.  Appearances change almost magically in afternoon light and you've got to keep track of the tower.  It's obvious when you begin, less so as you continue.  If there are more than two of you, it's wise to space out widely while descending the gully.  The rocks are loose and it's steeper than it looks.  
More people have died on this route than on any other.  Most were killed when descending.  

That's about it.  Let me know if you have questions about that permit.  

Bob Walton