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Bay Area Climbing

2016/7/22 8:48:13


Question
Dear Jeff,
I'm fairly new to climbing (about a year), and I'm still trying to figure out where I can climb. I know about/have climbed at Boyscout Rocks on Mt. Diablo as well as Pine Canyon. I also have climbed at Indian Rocks.
A friend with climbing experience aplenty just moved into the area, and wants to do some "real" climbing. Is there anything bigger or more exciting than Mt. Diablo in the area? Any multipitch stuff?
Thank you so much for your time.
Matt

Answer
Matt,
If you go to the Lower Tier of the rocks on Mt Diablo there are some long hard routes.   Mt. D is not so good right now. The rain make the sandstone very soft and unstable and the surrounding area is very muddy.

Near Indian Rock in Berekely is Cragmont Rock and Pinnacle Rock, both are small top rope things but have some good climbs.  An area that offers much harder stuff is Mickey's Beach near Stinson Beach.

As far as multi pitch climbs go, you can head to Pinnacle National Monument near Holister, up to Mt St Helena or drive the 3.5 hours to Yosemite. You can climb in the Valley year round and I have often made day trips their from the Bay Area.  Leave at 5 climb by 9, leave at 6 home by 9. Long day but worth it.

When the snow melts check out Lovers Leap, Donner Summit and The Pie Shop and 90 Foot Wall in South Tahoe.

Jeff

Good Luck
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