climbing and repelling rope

Question
when a rope is rated for a number of falls, what exactly does that mean, and how should i determine whether a rope would be safe for myself or another person to repel with?  im looking at buying ONLY new rope.  thanks

Answer
Dear Kevin---great question. In general, one fall is a "UIAA" fall. I do not have time to research this, but I can get you there. In abstract, a "UIAA" fall is a factor one fall---you go up 20 feet above the belayer, fall with no protection, and fall 20' below the belayer.

For details, go to the UIAA (union of international alpinism website---------------you'll find the test protocol described there.)  Alternatively, you can go to any manufacturer's website, to the climbing shop to read the instructions on a new rope, or google to learn more about fall ratings.

As For me, I've owned more than 30 ropes. I do "general" climbing---not emphatically sport, and not alpinism.  I buy the least expensive UIAA rope, but I buy a new one every 12 months. I usually pay about $89/rope at REI seasonal sales, or at REI.outlet.

To me, more important than buying expensive or buying rating (every climbing rope meets the mimimum UIA standard), is your maintenance and use----never expose to chemicals---never use a rope with a cut in the sheath--never use a rope with the end delaminating----never accept someone else's cheesy--poorly-maintained rope.

In short---buy a new UIAA rope, don't hesitate to retire it, and take care of it.

Good Luck-----For more on climbing safety please see my text---"Ultrasafe-A Guide to Safer Rock Climbing"----on Amazon.com----it has a whole section on rope selection and use.