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Simple Belay Anchor Question

2016/7/22 8:48:05


Question
Hi, I have a simple question about belay anchors. I'm considerably bigger than most people I climb with, so I've never used an anchor while belaying. This weekend, however, I was climbing with a new partner who is nearly my weight. Where/how should I attach to my harness to an anchor? Intuitively, I would guess something like a girth hitch through the waist and groin loops (like I would tie in) would be best (and then a locker on the anchor).  One of the people I was climbing with simply clipped a runner to her gear loop, but that doesn't seem safe to me at all.

Thanks!


Answer
Kevin---if you are belaying from the ground you need to anchor with the sling at your back...if you tie in at your front, a leader fall could swing you around and cause you to let go of the belay.

A locking biner to a sling or two is the best tie-in. The biner must go through your harness...be sure not to use the "haul loop" which in most harnesses is not designed to carry a load...on some more expencive harnesses there is a loop at your back that will carry a load....see the manufacturer's instructions to be sure.

The anchor should be a a stout tree or two or more nuts/cams----as indicated by the situation.

For more on climbing safety, please see my book on Amazon.com---"Ultrasafe-A Guide to Safer Rock Climbing."


Good Luck----George
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