Climbing shoes

Question
Hi
I am interested in starting to climb in the near future and get conflicting answers on how tight rock shoes should be. I keep getting sales clerks telling me that if you can walk in them they are not tight enough. Is comfort not also important?

Thanks

Answer
James----Great question.  I must say I am very disturbed by the guidance that you have been given.  When I took my six-year old son for shoes at a big outdoor store, the know-nothing there said the same thing.  Yes, if you are a 5.14 climber who makes his living on the rocks, it may give you an advantage to wear shoes that do not fit---but as a beginner/recreational climber...find a size that is snug...but comfortable. If you could not wear the shoes for one hour without discomfort....then the shoes are too tight.

I have been climbing 5.10/11 since 1977.  In my experience, a little bit of tightness may give you a slight advantage....you get up a 5.11a when normallly your limit is 5.10d...but I would much rather enjoy my recreation than climb at my ultimate limit.

For the vast majority of people...climbing is just for fun.

If you are starting out, please consider reading my book, "Ultrasafe-A Guide to Safer Rock Climbing," to get you in the right frame of mind about safety.

The short answer is....buy comfortable shoes that are not too tight...and tell that dude at the store he is giving bad advice to a novice.

Good Luck----George