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Roped solo climbing

2016/7/22 8:48:41


Question
Hi

I have recently started climbing roped solo - top-roping for now.  I am using prussics to self-belay at this stage - once I get the basics down I'll invest in a device like the Silent Partner.  I understand the basics of roped solo...good anchor, direction(s) of pull, tying into a backup knot on a second rope, etc.  But I have a few basic questions.

First - I use 6mm Perlon (I think...what I normally use to practice jugging/self rescue, too) rope to self belay, but how do I go about having two prussics for self-belay (one as back-up) - just one loop longer than the other, both tied to the rope and of course harness?  And what is the ideal length - would guess not too long, so I can always reach it, right?
Next, how do I tie the cord into my harness?  Carabiners?  Would like to tie directly into my harness, but this is impossible as then there isn't a "tail" available to push through the eye of the prussic while tying it to the rope.

And soon I want to start leading some easy pitches on prussic self-belays.  How do I stop the weight of the rope weighing the prussic knot down and making it lock?  Please give me some pointers around this.

And then the last question - I've read that you are supposed to tie a figure eight on a bight at the end of your rope once you get within 20 feet of it to stop the weight of the rope pulling the rope through the belay device, if you are leading solo with a Solo-Aid or Silent Partner.  How does one do this if there isn't a good resting place or ledge around - one handed?  Stupid question?  Want to ask anyway.

Thanks for your time.
Appreciated
gavin


Answer
Rope soloing on prissks, sound like more work than fun. I would recomend you buy a grigri, soloist, or silent partner and get it over with.

The figure eight on a bight should be tied before you leave the ground. Early on, while climbing a four pitch route on my soloist, the rope came through and I left stranded ropeless 300 feet up. I now carry the rope in a small pack on my back, and tie knots every 3 to 5 metersto avoid the problem.
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