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2016/7/22 8:48:14


Question
hello jeff.  My name is darren and i have been climbing on and off for about 6 months(i havent been outside yet just gym climbs) the last 3 months I have been training hard in hopes of climbing a 5.11+.  I have climbed several 5.10+ almost every one I try, but i have yet to complete even a 5.11a, I have heard some clibers say that there is a huge differance between a 10 and an 11+.  will getting a finger board and doing the programs actually help of is that a myth that you can bump up a couple levels if you train all winter.  I am pretty new to this so dont over look easy answers, I have had a couple people tell me some things that were just second nature to them but i didnt have a clue and it made a huge differance(lapping my thumb over my index finger for extra strength.  Thanks for taking the time to read my message and i hope to hear back from you.

                                   darren allen

Answer
Darren,
There is a huge difference between 5.10 and 5.11. There is also a huge difference between outdoor and indoor climbing.  Climbing 5.11 indoors does not mean you will be able to do it outdoors.  

Remember 5.10 is broken up into four grades 5.10a,b,c,d, each is a grade. So 5.11 is 4 grades harder than 5.10.  

Finger boards will definitely help, foot work is also very important.  It seems to me that in the gym upper body strength is huge, not so necessarily outdoors.  I would listen to all the trick the locals at the gym give you and see what works for you.  I hope this helps, my expertise is really more outdoors.  

Jeff
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